Creating the V-DRUM "BRIDGE" Type Trigger

[tcraw1010]

DIY eDrum virtuoso, Beatnik, has some fantastic instructions for creating in-shell eDrum bridge-type triggers.


"Simple" Trigger Instructions . . . .
http://www.drumbalaya.com/Beatnik-mirror/simpleacoustictrigger.html


"More Involved" Trigger Instructions . . . .
http://www.drumbalaya.com/Beatnik-mirror/moreinvolvedtrigger.html




TOM

[tcraw1010]

Here's a very interesting "spring mounted" bridge-type setup . . . .

http://www.csr69.com/edrum/xspring.html




TOM

[drummerdan]

Tom,

Thanks for seperating these links out. This is exactly the type of trigger I am working on for the snare I am building. The "spring mount" is excellent for adjustments on the cone. I believe that it offers the most flexibility for proper cone adjustment. Hopefully, I will finish my project sometime in March. I'll post pics.

[JLee]

Those two links do clear up a lot of the questions I have. The only two remaining would be (as stupid as this might sound)

1) How does the actual piezo mount to the foam? Is it glued?
2) Is the cone simply glued over the mounted piezo?

If I get those two cleared up, I think I am ready to go on this.

[tcraw1010]

Here is one description of how it can be done . . .

http://edrum.for.free.fr/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=41


It would seem that you would mount the piezo on a surface of some sort (so that there will be no cross-signal on the "bridge" (especially if you use a metal bridge).


TOM

[rhjanes]

pintech was gluing the snare rim trigger to the shell. they were gluing the other, inside a wedge of foam in the center of the drum. I had a wire solder break and had to dig around in the foam, which they had glued back in. Re soldered and it worked like new.
Ray

[tcraw1010]

Those two links do clear up a lot of the questions I have. The only two remaining would be (as stupid as this might sound)

1) How does the actual piezo mount to the foam? Is it glued?
2) Is the cone simply glued over the mounted piezo?

If I get those two cleared up, I think I am ready to go on this.


Here's another pretty good step-by-step instruction on how to configure the sensor.
http://users.pandora.be/philippe.ceuppens3/DIYdrum/index.htm

Just click on the hilighted "links" to view the corresponding pics.



TOM

[drummerdan]

1) How does the actual piezo mount to the foam? Is it glued?
2) Is the cone simply glued over the mounted piezo?



On a Roland, the piezo is mounted on a plate that has the cone glued directly over the top of it. Here's some pictures to show how they do it.

For a snare, you need 2 "zones" so you can mount a piezo directly to the shell for the rim sounds. Actually, many of the brains have 2 zone sounds for the toms, too. So you might want to make all your drums 2 zones - snare and toms (no need for the kick).

You can get a Roland cone from Musician Friend or elsewhere for around $5 each plus shipping.

Hope this helps.

[tcraw1010]

Dan - Is that an actual picture of a Roland V-Drum sensor configuration ???



TOM

[drummerdan]

Dan - Is that an actual picture of a Roland V-Drum sensor configuration ???



TOM

Yep, it my Roland PD 80R snare.

[tcraw1010]

AWESOME !!


Now all we need you to do is disect that cone so we can see the trigger/sensor configuration. ;)



TOM

[drummerdan]

AWESOME !!


Now all we need you to do is disect that cone so we can see the trigger/sensor configuration. ;)



TOM


ummm..........sure, I'll get right on that!!! Maybe it's best to use your powers of imagination!!!! ;)

[beatkeeper02]

I love this thread. Thank you.

Really, this is gonan be very very helpful when college rolls along...

[Stoovey]

No need for me to post the pics and info I said I would post...'cuz those links to Beatnik's stuff are exactly what I was talking about. I'm going to make my own trigger pads one of these days. Hardware will match my OMBDW kit (not built yet...) I am undecided about the color, but probably will be a natural stain that blends with the kit but also differentiates the pads from the acoustic drums.

I like the design, especially the spring-loaded. Nice sketch too, very detailed.

[JLee]

Tom and DrummerDan, as well as others who posted info and pictures on this topic.

thanks for unearthing some of these how to photos. I think I have a pretty good idea as to how to proceed now. I am two coats of tung oil into all the shells I am using, and can now see the day when I have a fully operable edrum set that will be perfect for home use ( as well as gigging, if I get the inclination to do so).

I appreciate the info.

[drummerdan]

I am two coats of tung oil into all the shells I am using, and can now see the day when I have a fully operable edrum set that will be perfect for home use ( as well as gigging, if I get the inclination to do so).

I appreciate the info.

Hey, I got you beat, I'm 4 coats of Tung and 3 coats of lacquer into my e-snare! I'm looking forward to seeing your pics and I'll be posting my stuff soon. I, too am thinking the same as you. A practical, functional and beautiful edrum kit that I can gig with and/or keep in my music room.

Keep on e-drummin'!

[tcraw1010]

drummerdan ....

How's that eSnare coming along ??



TOM

[drummerdan]

drummerdan ....

How's that eSnare coming along ??



TOM

Tom,

I made great progress this weekend. I finished the shell on the outside (natural finish and 20 coats of lacquer) and am getting ready to try my hand at making lugs (thanks Woody). I ended up getting sick (again) on Sunday but hopefully I'll get the lugs done this week. Then it's assembling the electronics and then final assembly. If all goes well, I'll be finished within a week or 2. Can't wait. I'll post some pics later.

[tcraw1010]

In the first link that I posted in the intial post, does anyone know what "Cross Member Material (1"x1"x1/8" thickness aluminum u-channel)" is ???

Also, does a 2"x1/8" thickness aluminum plate (piezo standoff) already come in the "correct size" as indicted in the second link?



TOM

[JLee]

Tom

I am not an expert by any means, but I believe that the U channel is just a piece of material that is bent down on the ends to slide along an aluminum strap of the corresponding size, kind of like the top piece on drapes.

I have been doing a little looking around, and I am pretty sure that some fabrication is going to be necessary. It looks to me that you can just take a hacksaw and cut the pieces down to size, which should not be all that hard. I went to the local hardware store, and it looks like some of the L brackets they stock are already predrilled and might just fit some lug patterns. Again, if I am wrong, I would think you can just drill to fit.

Also, there was a post a while back that said that the proper positioning of the bridge was so that the tip of the foam cone actually extended 1/8" above the top of the shell. Do you think this is correct?

[tcraw1010]

It may be correct so as to guarantee proper contact with the mesh head and triggering with the piezzo buried below. (But that's just an educated guess, mind you).

In any case ... it's "foam," so I am not sure 1/8th of an inch would be a big deal.



TOM

[drummerdan]

Tom

I am not an expert by any means, but I believe that the U channel is just a piece of material that is bent down on the ends to slide along an aluminum strap of the corresponding size, kind of like the top piece on drapes.

I have been doing a little looking around, and I am pretty sure that some fabrication is going to be necessary. It looks to me that you can just take a hacksaw and cut the pieces down to size, which should not be all that hard. I went to the local hardware store, and it looks like some of the L brackets they stock are already predrilled and might just fit some lug patterns. Again, if I am wrong, I would think you can just drill to fit.

Also, there was a post a while back that said that the proper positioning of the bridge was so that the tip of the foam cone actually extended 1/8" above the top of the shell. Do you think this is correct?

I believe the U channel can be bought at Lowes or Home Depot. You could also use a flat piece of metal, also purchased at the same places.

Regarding the cone placement: Yes, you do have to make conact with the head and 1/8" is the standard. However, you might have to make some minor adjustments to that height depending on your situation (regarding the module).

[tcraw1010]

Under what department would the u-channel piece be at Lowes or Home Depot ??



TOM

[JLee]

Not really too sure at either one of those two, but they were really easy to find at a local Ace Hardware that is literally one twentieth the size of either Lowes or HD, so I am sure they must carry them.

Although, my local HD did not have Tung Oil, so I may be wrong.

[tcraw1010]

Well .... What section did you find them in ACE Hardware ???



TOM

[JLee]

In Ace Hardware, I found the U channel on the same aisle as the metal straps that would be used to create the bridge. In that same aisle were nuts and bolts, and other fasteners. I don't know if Ace mandates that all stores are set up the same, though. At the end of this particular aisle were the oversized threaded rods that are used on rotating assemblies, etc.

Come to think of it, I was at Home Depot a while back and saw the straps on the end of an aisle where you would find other connecting parts for wood to wood building (i.e. securing joists and the like). Don't think I saw any of the U channels though.

[drummerdan]

Under what department would the u-channel piece be at Lowes or Home Depot ??



TOM

Tom, you can find this at Lowes where the other bulk aluminum is. They are sold in 8 foot sections, I think. About $10. It's near the hardware section. Just ask a salesperson. They knew exactly what I was talking about when I asked.

How's your project coming?

[damien]

Under what department would the u-channel piece be at Lowes or Home Depot ??



TOM

My Lowes has the u-channel near the hardware/fasteners

[The Mank]

I made my own "cone" for the trigger by rolling a piece of paper into the desired shape and then filling with silicone bathroom silicone sealer.The reason I used paper for my mold was that I found it let the air to the silicone which helped it dry .Leave to dry for around a week and then soak in hot water to remove paper and you should be left with a nice rubber cone.You can then stick piezo to your cone with another layer of bathroom silicone, that's how simmons used to attach them.

Mank

[tcraw1010]

Any chance you could snap/post a pic of that, Mank ??


TOM

[by-tor]

Any chance you could snap/post a pic of that, Mank ??


TOM

Yeah! This I wanna see!! It sounds cool!

[The Mank]

I made about 3 of the silicone cones about 2 years ago and I used to keep them in my workbox for emergencies.I'm sure i have 1 around somewhere but I just moved house so you'll have to give me a couple of days.
If I can't find one I'll make a couple more with pics to show how.

Mank

[The Mank]

Ok, couldn't find any of the original cones so I've just made a couple more which should be dry by tomorrow night.Where should I post the pictures?
In this thread or in the visual records thread?

Mank

[by-tor]

Ok, couldn't find any of the original cones so I've just made a couple more which should be dry by tomorrow night.Where should I post the pictures?
In this thread or in the visual records thread?

Mank
Maybe start a new thread in the e-drums section.

Thats what I would do.........


Can't wait to see the pics!