what do e-drums cost (sans module)?

[Chippy569]

I've got this tama stagestar here. After reading some things, i'm seriously considering turning it into an e-kit when i get the time/money (you know how that goes.)
I've got mesh heads, but they're not very nice.

So what i'm looking for is really a parts list and an estimated cost... minus module.
maybe an estimated time, too.

[JLee]

I've got this tama stagestar here. After reading some things, i'm seriously considering turning it into an e-kit when i get the time/money (you know how that goes.)
I've got mesh heads, but they're not very nice.

So what i'm looking for is really a parts list and an estimated cost... minus module.
maybe an estimated time, too.

Since you already have shells and hardware, and are not figuring a module into the price, then you are not talking about much money at all - just piezos, bridges, jacks and wiring as I see it. Probably about $40 at the very max, plus new heads if they are necessary, likely a lot less. Also depends on what you plan on doing for cymbals.

[Chippy569]

i'm buying a new kit from Raven sometime, and i want to turn my stagestar into a practice E-kit for college etc. So... probly no real cymbals... some cymbal-esque plastic would do.

Also, i haven't really found a good explaination of how to build the bridge... which is what confuses me most. i think your post JLee was most helpful but i'm still a bit lost...

[torre_awesome]

I just finished my kit (get ready for pics and clips this weekend). I built my bridge's using the spring mounted design that was posted a while ago. http://www.csr69.com/edrum/xspring.html

the schematics aren't really that hard. I used door brackets from lowes off the lugs (cut up mouse pad between the bracket and shell). Off of there I dropped a 1/4" x 2" bolt. Put in a spring (spring #152 from truevalue) and linked it to a piece of aluminum u channel. I bought everything from radioshack, the hardware isle of lowes, and my local true value. i would say, expect about 1.5-2 hours per drum.

anymore q's, let me know.

-torre.

[tcraw1010]

Can't wait to see the pics.


:-D


TOM

[Chippy569]

All right, i'm on my quest to start this with my christmas money. here's what i'm looking at.

I need heads. 10" 12" 14" 18" 13" to be exact. I found these http://shop.drumbalaya.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.195/.f
do you think they'll be all right?


Now, piezo's.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=466&type=store
the 2" ones seem perfect... no? yes?


And then the jacks...
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item=PHJ-1&type=store



And now where i get the rest of the parts is beyond me. Who would like to point me towards the bars, springs, and l-clamps? If i could get some l-clamps that would slip underneath my current lugs, that'd rock.


lastly, those pesky foam cones, does anywhere sell the rolands for cheaper than musiciansfriend?

[Chippy569]

no one?

[torre_awesome]

hey, sorry bro.

i got all of the equipment to convert my shells into e drums at lowes and truevalue (springs only from truevalue). my clamps are actually door brackets. I had to drill an extra hole in them so they would fit (took forever, friggen steel.) but i would expect this to be the case with all brackets you could find, but this also means that it will fit any lug you want to use (only exception being single point.) the u chanel is in the hardware isle, with the aluminum sheet metal.

as far as i can tell, musicians friend is the only one with foam cones, only exception would be if your local drum shop is a roland dealer and could order them.

hope it helps, if not pm,
-torre

[JLee]

All right, i'm on my quest to start this with my christmas money. here's what i'm looking at.

I need heads. 10" 12" 14" 18" 13" to be exact. I found these http://shop.drumbalaya.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.195/.f
do you think they'll be all right?


Now, piezo's.
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=466&type=store
the 2" ones seem perfect... no? yes?


And then the jacks...
http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item=PHJ-1&type=store



And now where i get the rest of the parts is beyond me. Who would like to point me towards the bars, springs, and l-clamps? If i could get some l-clamps that would slip underneath my current lugs, that'd rock.


lastly, those pesky foam cones, does anywhere sell the rolands for cheaper than musiciansfriend?

Those heads should work just fine. They will be a step or so above what I bought (Pearl Rhythm Travellers) as far as quality. The quality of the heads definitely makes a difference in how the kit plays. Tom (TCraw) actually suggested getting Roland heads, both because of their quality and their look - and he was right about the difference they would make. Better heads hold tension longer and provide a more realistic feel.

Those Piezos are fine as well. I am not totally sold on the concept that a bigger piezo means a bigger coverage area, though i may be wrong, because the piezo is going to be affixed to a cone with the same size base whether it is 2" or 1". The tip of the cone contacting the head would also be the same size. Again, I could be wrong.

Jacks should be fine as well. I went with Radio Shack monos for the toms and a stereo for the snare. They worked well for me, but then, so should the ones you are showing.

As far as hardware, I bought all of mine at Home Depot, save for the rubber spaces I put in the piezo platform. I found that the L brackets I chose worked well with Pearl lugs, after modifying the holes in them just a little bit with a round file. It made the setup a little cleaner and easier. I put rubber gaskets in between the L brackets and the inside of the shell to minimize and denting of the shell. The bridges and piezo platforms were also purchased from metal stock at Home Depot.

Just a word of advice. Make sure you use metal with NO FLEX for the bridge. If the metal flexes, you can end up with false triggering, as it can move the cone enough for it to trigger on its own. Pick up a piece at the store. If it bends easily, it is too thin.

On the cones, I tried making my own first, before opting for the Musicansfriend variety. the ones I made out of silicone sealer lacked the springback consistency that I thought would be necessary. I agree with you on the price, however, 7.99 is pretty expensive.

Another poster on this forum, Weldman, made his own with a custom made cutter he built (resourceful guy). I am sure that his cones are working fine, as he wisely chose to use foam that would mirror the store-bought model as far as consistency is concerned.

[Chippy569]

hey JLee and torre, thanks for the help!

[tcraw1010]

hey JLee and torre, thanks for the help!


Hey ... I got them to START this section in the first place.

Where's MY shout out ???

:(




Heheheheh .... Just kidding .... Jon (JLee) is da man !!!




(I did get them to start this section, though)



TOM

[Chippy569]

i'd like to forward an indirect thank you to tom, as well. ;)

[boobus]

Hey Chippy listen to JLEE, he knows what he's doing. I based my entire project on his method and it worked well.... gotta give love that direction. To reiterate, it's just little crap from any hardware store with bulk bins. Tell the hardware guy what you're fabricating and if he/she's any good, they'll be all over it.

[JLee]

Hey ... I got them to START this section in the first place.

Where's MY shout out ???

:(




Heheheheh .... Just kidding .... Jon (JLee) is da man !!!




(I did get them to start this section, though)



TOM

Thanks Tom, much appreciated.

And yes, you did get them to start this section, and it has resulted in the exchange of a lot of information, without which I would have had a pretty seriously hard time in getting my project finished, so thank you as well.

[JLee]

hey JLee and torre, thanks for the help!

You are very welcome. Sorry I did not respond sooner.

[JLee]

Hey Chippy listen to JLEE, he knows what he's doing. I based my entire project on his method and it worked well.... gotta give love that direction. To reiterate, it's just little crap from any hardware store with bulk bins. Tell the hardware guy what you're fabricating and if he/she's any good, they'll be all over it.

Boobus

Thank you for the props. Like many on this site, I based everything I did on work that went on before me and was generously shared, without which the project would have been much harder.

You are absolutely right about enlisting the help of hardware store help. There are a lot of employees that would actually enjoy the advising on a project, as long as they have a clear idea as to what you are looking for.